‘I visited Scotland’s paradise island with the world’s only tidal airport’

The airplane turns, and my eyes immediately lock on the white sandy strip as the pilot announces ‘flight crew, ready for landing.’

We are about to set down on the most southerly inhabited island in the Outer Hebrides on the world’s only airport dictated by the tides, Traigh Mhòr located on the northern tip on the Isle of Barra.

The island of Barra punches far above its eight mile length and five miles width; with breathtaking surroundings of craggy coastline, flower-covered morchair plains and moors, mile long beaches and an extensive Hebridean history and heritage, it really is the UK perfect island escape, or, rather, ‘Barradise.’

Barra is one of the 15 inhabited islands of the Outer Hebrides, adjacent to the smaller island of Vatersay, and is one of the Royal Family’s best-kept summer cruise secrets. In non-royal style, the island may be accessed by either landing on the beach at Cockle Strand by airplane or by ferry, which departs from Oban and arrives at the main harbour, Castlebay.

True to its name, Castlebay is a fairytale-like town with scattered traditional stone buildings that sit in and out of the coastline, with the centrepiece of a traditional parish church: a star feature of the 1949 film Whiskey Galore, a film based on the true story of a wrecked ship raided by the islanders for its 50,000 cases of whisky.

I don’t believe that any cargo would be more worthy to be part of Scottish heritage.

Outnumbered by the neighbouring Highland cows and sheep, Barra is home to a close-knit population of around 1,200 – it is a population that is supported by the European’s strong appetite of the Scottish lobster, langoustine and crab which live on the scenic coastline.

Bonded by perhaps a shared adversity to the weather, I can solemnly swear that I have never met a group of people who are comparable to the Barra kindness.

Guarding the coastline is Kismul Castle, one of the most beautiful castles in Scotland. A 15th century fortress, it is the only remaining medieval castle in the Outer Hebrides. Visitors can visit the castle between April and October with a quick five minute ferry ride that takes you back centuries in Hebridean history.

Exploring Barra doesn’t take long, with one singular road – a mere 14 miles – that wraps around the whole island: in all honesty, everything on Barra is ‘close’. Following the road will take you to some of the most beautiful beaches that I have personally visited, with crystal clear waters and white sand – add 10 degrees centigrade, and I’d believe it to be the Caribbean.

A particular favourite spot of mine is Tangasdale Beach, which offers a never-ending strip of beach bordered by clear aquamarine waters and panoramic views of the Atlantic. Despite my own personal negative sentiment to it, the wind certainly provides a great opportunity for surfers, kitesurfers and windsurfers to utilise the uncrowded beaches.

Here, the Isle of Barra Beach Hotel is also found, known as the most westerly hotel and pub in the UK. Rooms starting from £125.pp per room per night for single occupancy. Taking the machair path further along takes you to Halaman Bay, with top wildlife sightings of dolphins and otters, and to the iron-age fort of Dùn Ban.

A small half-hour climb up the handsome Heaval mountain will provide some of the most breathtaking views in Scotland at 1,300ft high, from Castlebay to the Kismul Castle, to the white-sandy coastline scattered with coves and beaches, to the adjacent island of Vatersay.

These panoramic views of Barra are the permanent views of the white statue of the Madonna and Child which sits on the top of the hill.

Getting there

The main route to Barra is by CalMac ferry from Oban, on the mainland. The crossing takes four hours 45 minutes. You can also get a ferry to Barra from the island of Eriskay which takes 40 minutes. You can also fly from Glasgow Airport with Loganair.

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